Let’s shift gears a bit this week and introduce a subject that should be near and dear to all of us - Safety. Specifically- Personal Safety in the shop
Safety is one of the basic building blocks in any shop. In fact, safety is something that we all need to be aware of in every aspect of our everyday life. Without a constant mind-set of being concerned with your own safety, you might tend to drive without using your seat belt. Without this constant awareness, you might cross the street without looking both ways. Safe thinking is something that we all need to keep on our mind.
This is especially true in the woodshop. If you ask an experienced woodworker what their most prized possession is, many of them will proudly hold up a full set of 8 fingers and two thumbs. These are the woodworkers who have been safety conscious for a long time, yet many of them will also tell you stories of how they have been very fortunate in certain situations to have escaped serious injury due to their own lapse in judgment. Many of the stories one hears of “being lucky” start out with, “Well, I was in a hurry and thought I could just do this one thing quickly…and I almost didn’t get away with it. It was really stupid on my part.”
Remember, the best safety device that you have access to is your own good sense. If something you are doing creates hackles on the back of your neck, it just might be your intuition telling you to stop before you get hurt. Don’t get in a hurry. Think through your actions first and be prepared to work safely.
You should never work on, or operate, woodshop machines if you are taking medication that makes you drowsy, if you are very tired or if you are under the influence of alcohol. These substances may cause you to ignore potential safety hazards. You should always use proper safety equipment. Eye protection is first and foremost on any safety equipment list. It should comply with the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Z87.1 standard. Hearing protection is also important and it should comply with the ANSI S3.19 standard. Even if you install the best dust collection system that money can buy, it is always wise to use a proper dust mask. Many people use the white disposable paper masks; however, those type masks typically allow too many smaller particles to pass thru them. I recommend using a good respirator mask that has replaceable cartridges. In extreme dust environments, there are other respirators that supply fresh air to an attached hood.
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Column #8- Taylor-Tot pt.3
Let’s finish up the Taylor-Tot story and next week we may talk Tips & Techniques again. I completely disassembled the entire stroller, blasted everything on it and primed it. I had the original color matched at ColorMatch, shot it with color, and then went back and sprayed it with a hardening clear coat. It turned out real nice…but it has to be just RIGHT. That leaves the decals, buggy bumpers and wooden roller beads to get the same attention.
During the time I was restoring the body parts and the mechanical parts, I was also looking at the various decals that came on them. As I said earlier, the professor sent me a copy of his front decal - it was paper. I suppose I could have glued it on and no one would have been the wiser…but I would know. Ya understand?... and if I’m going to go ‘all out’, the seat decal needed reviving too. So I took the paper front decal down to my local sign shop and had them make one in vinyl. The seat decal was a bit tougher. The wording was not completely readable, but as my good fortune lasted, I kept watching the eBay ads and someone posted the wording from their stroller seat decal and WALLA (that’s a Southern term for “Hot DOG”!) mine made perfect sense. So I took what I had back to the sign shop and after 2 tries, they got the thing just right.
The wooden roller beads (1956 and up used plastic roller beads) sit on a rail around the package tray that sits right in front of the rider. They are something for the rider to play with. As it turned out, Hobby Lobby has fresh wooden beads. All I had to do was drill holes thru them and paint them with a child-safe paint.
The buggy bumpers had rubber tubing over them and the tubing is readily available by using…well…I think I’ll keep that to myself. You never know when I might make up some kits and sell them on eBay for a little walking around money.
So, now you know. I’m the resident expert on Taylor Tot strollers. You can see my handiwork at www.3r1enterprises.com. I have reproduced more decals than I needed and have sold a few sets to other restorers. By the way, in my searching, I found that someone had restored one of these Taylor-Tots, gold plated the bumpers…and they wanted $3000.00 for it. YIKES!
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
During the time I was restoring the body parts and the mechanical parts, I was also looking at the various decals that came on them. As I said earlier, the professor sent me a copy of his front decal - it was paper. I suppose I could have glued it on and no one would have been the wiser…but I would know. Ya understand?... and if I’m going to go ‘all out’, the seat decal needed reviving too. So I took the paper front decal down to my local sign shop and had them make one in vinyl. The seat decal was a bit tougher. The wording was not completely readable, but as my good fortune lasted, I kept watching the eBay ads and someone posted the wording from their stroller seat decal and WALLA (that’s a Southern term for “Hot DOG”!) mine made perfect sense. So I took what I had back to the sign shop and after 2 tries, they got the thing just right.
The wooden roller beads (1956 and up used plastic roller beads) sit on a rail around the package tray that sits right in front of the rider. They are something for the rider to play with. As it turned out, Hobby Lobby has fresh wooden beads. All I had to do was drill holes thru them and paint them with a child-safe paint.
The buggy bumpers had rubber tubing over them and the tubing is readily available by using…well…I think I’ll keep that to myself. You never know when I might make up some kits and sell them on eBay for a little walking around money.
So, now you know. I’m the resident expert on Taylor Tot strollers. You can see my handiwork at www.3r1enterprises.com. I have reproduced more decals than I needed and have sold a few sets to other restorers. By the way, in my searching, I found that someone had restored one of these Taylor-Tots, gold plated the bumpers…and they wanted $3000.00 for it. YIKES!
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Toolsmartz -Column #7- Taylor-Tot pt. 2
I think Mark knows a bit more about how to keep his cordless tools running longer. I sure appreciate you folks writing in and asking those questions. That’s what this whole deal is about. I’m only using my stories as filler while wondering what sorts of questions you will ask.
I guess, let’s go with part 2 of the Taylor-Tot story. We’ll pick up where I left off, right after I got the little beast home.
Now I go trolling for the name “Taylor-Tot”…and lo and behold, I find a guy who was a college professor who was restoring the actual Taylor-Tot stroller from his childhood. Man, he had his lookin sweeet! So I emailed him and we started talking.
Well, during this time of reworking and learning all I can about them, I found another one on ebay and it had the ‘high-class options’ of “wheel pants” and a foot tray. These are groovy little fenders that cover the wheels and don’t let the rider’s feet scrub on the tires and a tray that is put under the rider’s feet when the stroller is used as a ‘pusher’. Lucky me, I won the auction- so now I had 2. (it really does end, but who knows where?). So I get the second one and right off, I discover that it still has the date code that was stamped underneath the seat AND it has most of an original seat decal still in place – oh, my…a prize catch indeed! This thing was made in 1949. Ok, change of priorities… the one from ebay became the project.
We’ll stop here for this week, just so that I can squeeze in my ‘elevator speech’. That’s the speech that one gives during a ride up the elevator when you’re making connections looking for that next career opportunity. So here you are: “You know how there are teams of highly-skilled mechanical and electrical technicians that seem to know all things technical, but just don’t have the skills necessary to effectively communicate to the other departments or write service manuals or the inclination to manage themselves properly? That’s where I come in. I manage groups like that and keep them focused on the straight and narrow in order to provide outstanding service to our internal and external customers.” Since I’m looking for that new career opportunity, if you know of one, or have a connection that might be beneficial, please let me know.
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
I guess, let’s go with part 2 of the Taylor-Tot story. We’ll pick up where I left off, right after I got the little beast home.
Now I go trolling for the name “Taylor-Tot”…and lo and behold, I find a guy who was a college professor who was restoring the actual Taylor-Tot stroller from his childhood. Man, he had his lookin sweeet! So I emailed him and we started talking.
Well, during this time of reworking and learning all I can about them, I found another one on ebay and it had the ‘high-class options’ of “wheel pants” and a foot tray. These are groovy little fenders that cover the wheels and don’t let the rider’s feet scrub on the tires and a tray that is put under the rider’s feet when the stroller is used as a ‘pusher’. Lucky me, I won the auction- so now I had 2. (it really does end, but who knows where?). So I get the second one and right off, I discover that it still has the date code that was stamped underneath the seat AND it has most of an original seat decal still in place – oh, my…a prize catch indeed! This thing was made in 1949. Ok, change of priorities… the one from ebay became the project.
We’ll stop here for this week, just so that I can squeeze in my ‘elevator speech’. That’s the speech that one gives during a ride up the elevator when you’re making connections looking for that next career opportunity. So here you are: “You know how there are teams of highly-skilled mechanical and electrical technicians that seem to know all things technical, but just don’t have the skills necessary to effectively communicate to the other departments or write service manuals or the inclination to manage themselves properly? That’s where I come in. I manage groups like that and keep them focused on the straight and narrow in order to provide outstanding service to our internal and external customers.” Since I’m looking for that new career opportunity, if you know of one, or have a connection that might be beneficial, please let me know.
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Toolsmartz - Column #6 -Cordless battery life
Part 2 of the Taylor-Tot story will need to wait for a bit, we’ve got a question from Mark that needs answering…and it’s a goody. “Tom: Why do the batteries for cordless devices fail and what can be done to extend their life?” Mark, today’s cordless tool batteries are way beyond the technology of what they used to be, but they still get the most cordless tool complaints.
I’ll tell you what I know. Basically, batteries are devices that convert chemical energy into electrical energy. When the chemical reaction is depleted the battery is "dead". To my knowledge nothing can be done to "extend" the battery life. Eventually, batteries will just get ‘used up’. There are steps which help slow the chemical reaction, but nothing will take a battery that was designed for 1000 charge cycles to 1500 charge cycles.
The best method for slowing that chemical reaction is to avoid deep discharges. Use the battery in the tool until it will no longer do the job you’re attempting, and then charge it. Also, make sure your charger is a ‘smart charger’. Most chargers of the name brands have this feature. It reduces the charger output level as the battery’s charge comes back up. Some of the lower cost brands may not have that and when a charger keeps slamming a full charge into the battery – the heat it creates really shortens the battery life. Batteries hate heat.
Naturally, dropping a battery may crack the case or damage internal components, so you want to avoid that. I personally have an older 19.2v Porter-Cable drill and I have 3 batteries for it. Two of them work just fine and have for over 5 years. The third one just barely holds a charge for a really short time and probably should be recycled. My point being that if one takes good care of their batteries, it is possible to get some good life out of them, but when they are dead…there’s no way to revive them and it’s time to buy a fresh battery.
Keep them cool and they will help keep you from ‘losing your cool’.
I hope that info helps you, Mark. Thanks for writing!
Hopefully, we’ll have another answer for our readers next week, but if not, tune in for Part 2 of the Taylor-Tot story that we missed.
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
I’ll tell you what I know. Basically, batteries are devices that convert chemical energy into electrical energy. When the chemical reaction is depleted the battery is "dead". To my knowledge nothing can be done to "extend" the battery life. Eventually, batteries will just get ‘used up’. There are steps which help slow the chemical reaction, but nothing will take a battery that was designed for 1000 charge cycles to 1500 charge cycles.
The best method for slowing that chemical reaction is to avoid deep discharges. Use the battery in the tool until it will no longer do the job you’re attempting, and then charge it. Also, make sure your charger is a ‘smart charger’. Most chargers of the name brands have this feature. It reduces the charger output level as the battery’s charge comes back up. Some of the lower cost brands may not have that and when a charger keeps slamming a full charge into the battery – the heat it creates really shortens the battery life. Batteries hate heat.
Naturally, dropping a battery may crack the case or damage internal components, so you want to avoid that. I personally have an older 19.2v Porter-Cable drill and I have 3 batteries for it. Two of them work just fine and have for over 5 years. The third one just barely holds a charge for a really short time and probably should be recycled. My point being that if one takes good care of their batteries, it is possible to get some good life out of them, but when they are dead…there’s no way to revive them and it’s time to buy a fresh battery.
Keep them cool and they will help keep you from ‘losing your cool’.
I hope that info helps you, Mark. Thanks for writing!
Hopefully, we’ll have another answer for our readers next week, but if not, tune in for Part 2 of the Taylor-Tot story that we missed.
Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
Friday, February 26, 2010
ToolSmartz- Column #5- Taylor-Tot
I hope Jim found his zero clearance insert. Those do come in handy when sawing small pieces on your table saw.
This week I decided to write a little more about myself and what I’m doing during this season of career transition. We hear a lot along the line of “What would you do, if you didn’t get paid for it.” Naturally, one of my answers is “Help people fix their tools”, but another has to be “Work on my Taylor-Tot”
The who?...Oh, the singer?...no?.... The blog guy?... uh, no….
Believe it or not, Taylor Tot is a … stroller. But not just any stroller…it was the premiere baby stroller of the 20th century. From hours on hours of research, it seems they were made from the 1920’s till the 1970’s. The company was the Frank F. Taylor Company of Cincinnati, Ohio.
So, how did I get in such a shape?... Well, you may not have already figured it out, but I love old stuff. If I had my way (and the moola of course) my home would not have anything newer than 1960 inside it…well, other than the TV, the washer/dryer and the computer…but you get the idea.
Here’s the tale… in May of 2004, my wife and I were at a West Tennessee Antique Auto Club car show around the square in Jackson, TN. We were walking along and checking things out and one side street was the location of the ‘swap meet’ (EVERY car show has to have one of those areas - it’s in the rules). Anyway, I spotted this kool looking stroller sitting there and told my wife, ‘Hey, that’s gotta be old’. So we looked it over a bit- thinking wow, this would be a neat thing to restore and use for the grandkids. There were no nameplates on it anywhere, so I had no idea what brand it was or how ‘old’ it really was, only that it looked ‘old’. I asked the fellow who was in the area how much he wanted for it and he said “40 bucks”… Well, we started to walk away, slightly wondering what we would do with one anyway…but then, the deal clincher… “But I’ll let YOU have it for 35”… yep - SOLD.
Well, we get the thing home and I start trolling the internet to find out more about what we had. It turns out that ebay had some pictures that looked just like it…and that’s how I found out the name; Taylor Tot. At least I now knew what it was….
This week I decided to write a little more about myself and what I’m doing during this season of career transition. We hear a lot along the line of “What would you do, if you didn’t get paid for it.” Naturally, one of my answers is “Help people fix their tools”, but another has to be “Work on my Taylor-Tot”
The who?...Oh, the singer?...no?.... The blog guy?... uh, no….
Believe it or not, Taylor Tot is a … stroller. But not just any stroller…it was the premiere baby stroller of the 20th century. From hours on hours of research, it seems they were made from the 1920’s till the 1970’s. The company was the Frank F. Taylor Company of Cincinnati, Ohio.
So, how did I get in such a shape?... Well, you may not have already figured it out, but I love old stuff. If I had my way (and the moola of course) my home would not have anything newer than 1960 inside it…well, other than the TV, the washer/dryer and the computer…but you get the idea.
Here’s the tale… in May of 2004, my wife and I were at a West Tennessee Antique Auto Club car show around the square in Jackson, TN. We were walking along and checking things out and one side street was the location of the ‘swap meet’ (EVERY car show has to have one of those areas - it’s in the rules). Anyway, I spotted this kool looking stroller sitting there and told my wife, ‘Hey, that’s gotta be old’. So we looked it over a bit- thinking wow, this would be a neat thing to restore and use for the grandkids. There were no nameplates on it anywhere, so I had no idea what brand it was or how ‘old’ it really was, only that it looked ‘old’. I asked the fellow who was in the area how much he wanted for it and he said “40 bucks”… Well, we started to walk away, slightly wondering what we would do with one anyway…but then, the deal clincher… “But I’ll let YOU have it for 35”… yep - SOLD.
Well, we get the thing home and I start trolling the internet to find out more about what we had. It turns out that ebay had some pictures that looked just like it…and that’s how I found out the name; Taylor Tot. At least I now knew what it was….
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Toolsmartz - Column #4- zero clearance insert
Now, we’re starting to cook. We got our first reader email as a result of our new column. It was from a fellow named “Jim” and he said, “Tom, As a newbie to the area do you know if there is a local supplier that would carry a zero clearance table saw insert for a 7yr. old, 10" Ridgid table saw?”
Jim, I’ve got a good answer for you, but if you don’t mind, I’m going to use your email as a teaching moment for our other readers. I hope it’s OK with you, because I want to be able to connect with my readers and be able to help them to the best of my ability.
First off: Please send your emails to Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net This is the fastest, most trouble-free way to send me an email. Don’t send it thru the paper’s contactus address. It takes longer to get back around to me.
Second: I can assist you better if I know your tool’s Model Number. Just like in your question, Jim - I know people who might have that very insert, but without the exact Model Number I can’t pin it down for them.
Lastly: Please send me your full name. (NOTE: only the writer’s first name will be published) If I happen to refer you to one of my ‘preferred suppliers’, I want to be able to let them know you are coming so they can take good care of you.
Now, back to you Jim. I don’t know of anyone that has Ridgid inserts sitting on the shelf were you can go pick one up. It’s possible that Woodcraft in Franklin may have one that would be compatible but I’m not sure. It is also possible that a ZC Insert for a Craftsman saw would work on your saw, because Ridgid/Craftsman were made by the same company a few years ago…but again, I’m not positive. Here is what I DO know. There is a Ridgid service center in downtown Nashville that can order the very insert that you need. I know these guys. They are one of my ‘preferred suppliers’ and they will take good care of you. The shop is called “Toolserve of Nashville” and you should call Roger at 242-7500. Tell him that Tom at ToolSmartz sent you to him and he will do you right.
Thanks for your question Jim and since you were the first - you get the famous ‘no-prize’ from ToolSmartz. See ya’ll next week.
Jim, I’ve got a good answer for you, but if you don’t mind, I’m going to use your email as a teaching moment for our other readers. I hope it’s OK with you, because I want to be able to connect with my readers and be able to help them to the best of my ability.
First off: Please send your emails to Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net This is the fastest, most trouble-free way to send me an email. Don’t send it thru the paper’s contactus address. It takes longer to get back around to me.
Second: I can assist you better if I know your tool’s Model Number. Just like in your question, Jim - I know people who might have that very insert, but without the exact Model Number I can’t pin it down for them.
Lastly: Please send me your full name. (NOTE: only the writer’s first name will be published) If I happen to refer you to one of my ‘preferred suppliers’, I want to be able to let them know you are coming so they can take good care of you.
Now, back to you Jim. I don’t know of anyone that has Ridgid inserts sitting on the shelf were you can go pick one up. It’s possible that Woodcraft in Franklin may have one that would be compatible but I’m not sure. It is also possible that a ZC Insert for a Craftsman saw would work on your saw, because Ridgid/Craftsman were made by the same company a few years ago…but again, I’m not positive. Here is what I DO know. There is a Ridgid service center in downtown Nashville that can order the very insert that you need. I know these guys. They are one of my ‘preferred suppliers’ and they will take good care of you. The shop is called “Toolserve of Nashville” and you should call Roger at 242-7500. Tell him that Tom at ToolSmartz sent you to him and he will do you right.
Thanks for your question Jim and since you were the first - you get the famous ‘no-prize’ from ToolSmartz. See ya’ll next week.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Toolsmartz -Column #3- motor voltage and planer tips
ToolSmartz
____________________________
What to write about this week? Maybe ‘ramble’ some more...or maybe not.
Let’s do this: “Tips and Techniques”. Once upon a time, I was in charge of reviewing Tips & Techniques that were submitted to our (Delta’s) website by people who visited our website and signed up to submit them. I’m here to tell you that there were some very good items sent in to us - there is a wealth of knowledge out there on things woodworking. Believe it or not, I’m not a woodworker. People often find that hard to believe but I explain it this way: Artists paint some absolutely beautiful pictures, but they may have no idea how to make a paint brush or an easel, or the paint. That’s where I come in. The woodworkers are ‘artists’ and I (and guys like me) make sure their tools work properly and will do what they need them to do.
Anyway, I digress…here are a couple of Tips for you to ponder:
1: If you have a shop machine that has a motor that can be wired for 2 different voltages (for example; 120volt or 240volt) AND you have the proper electrical circuit, it is better to wire your motor for, and run it on, the higher voltage. This one of the ‘black holes’ that tool guys can get caught up in. There are some who would say that it makes no difference which voltage a motor uses and yes, electrically, I can agree with them; however, I have talked to far too many ‘real world’ woodworkers who know it has made a difference, to go along with them. I know the theory-I have a degree in Electronics- but I also have experience that ‘theory only’, will not explain. Tools and stuff seem to be odd that way.
2: If your stationary wood planer has seemed to be planing wood just fine and then you begin to notice that the wood is getting harder and harder to get through the machine; the first thing to do is clean the planer’s bed and make sure it’s not caked up with pitch. If it’s good and clean, change your planer knives. The knives you’re using may be beating the boards instead of cutting them.
Tune in next week for more rambling thoughts or hopefully, some answers for readers. Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
____________________________
What to write about this week? Maybe ‘ramble’ some more...or maybe not.
Let’s do this: “Tips and Techniques”. Once upon a time, I was in charge of reviewing Tips & Techniques that were submitted to our (Delta’s) website by people who visited our website and signed up to submit them. I’m here to tell you that there were some very good items sent in to us - there is a wealth of knowledge out there on things woodworking. Believe it or not, I’m not a woodworker. People often find that hard to believe but I explain it this way: Artists paint some absolutely beautiful pictures, but they may have no idea how to make a paint brush or an easel, or the paint. That’s where I come in. The woodworkers are ‘artists’ and I (and guys like me) make sure their tools work properly and will do what they need them to do.
Anyway, I digress…here are a couple of Tips for you to ponder:
1: If you have a shop machine that has a motor that can be wired for 2 different voltages (for example; 120volt or 240volt) AND you have the proper electrical circuit, it is better to wire your motor for, and run it on, the higher voltage. This one of the ‘black holes’ that tool guys can get caught up in. There are some who would say that it makes no difference which voltage a motor uses and yes, electrically, I can agree with them; however, I have talked to far too many ‘real world’ woodworkers who know it has made a difference, to go along with them. I know the theory-I have a degree in Electronics- but I also have experience that ‘theory only’, will not explain. Tools and stuff seem to be odd that way.
2: If your stationary wood planer has seemed to be planing wood just fine and then you begin to notice that the wood is getting harder and harder to get through the machine; the first thing to do is clean the planer’s bed and make sure it’s not caked up with pitch. If it’s good and clean, change your planer knives. The knives you’re using may be beating the boards instead of cutting them.
Tune in next week for more rambling thoughts or hopefully, some answers for readers. Send your questions or comments to:
Toolsmartz@bellsouth.net and we’ll see what we can do to help you.
_______________________________________________________________
Any views or opinions presented in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of this newspaper. Neither the author, nor this newspaper, accepts any liability for the content of this article, or for the consequences of any actions taken on the basis of the information provided.
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